Window leaks update… I think I found the culprit for the water leakes in the s…
Window leaks update… I think I found the culprit for the water leakes in the salon but my next question is how far do I dig and once I get there how do I fix it #nauticinderella
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https://www.facebook.com/70684391248/posts/10154416957076249
Check this out http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/cpes.html
3M 5200 is your friend ! … if it’s a flat surface a great cheaper alternative is Sikaflex
The caulking around the glass, Silicone No No No.
It won’t stick to glass and seperates from moist wood the moment your happy and cover it.
Dig out completely & use GE 100% Silicone non paintable caulk.
Before you start digging, mix up some food coloring in a spray bottle and isolate the area systematically.
Tom Kenny independence had issues here
What will adhere to that wet rotten surface? I wonder if Flex Seal as advertised on tv might work.
Once you start digging, you don’t know how far it will take you, window problems to deck problems to side planking to hull frames….
Deep into your pockets I suspect !!
cool anchor chain bracelet.
Kool-aid test results
Hi again Cindy. I had many of the same issues that you have on my 1961 55′ Connie. The center windshield was always a leakier. Over time I repaired the wood framing on both sides of the center windshield – no luck. I replaced the gasket material that the windshield rest on several times and again no luck. I removed the hinge at the top of the windshield and installed a rubber strip across the top of the windshield, that did not stop the leaking. Year after year the center windshield leaked. By chance I meet up with a fellow boater that was a “window glazier” and asked him to look at my leak. He looked at all that I had done, inside and out and announced, “Oh that’s an easy fix. (smart ass) He told me to get a hand full of tongue depressors some 3M 4200 and a small thin hook the size of a metal coat hanger. He told me to dig out every last piece of old caulk on the inside and outside of the window where the glass and framing meet. That took awhile to get it ALL out. At this point the glass was loose and flopping around inside the metal framing around the window glass. Starting from the inside I stuffed three tongue in between the glass and framing around the window. Now the glass is pushed up against the outside metal framing. Next the 4200. He had me squeeze the tip of the 4200 tube with some pliers so that the end of the tube looked like a duck bill. Next came the sealing work. He had me slowly go around the 4 sides of the inside of the window and inject the 4200 deep inside the inside of the window frame and then remove the tongue depressors before the 4200 set-up, Next, the same procedure on the outside. Install the tongue depressors around the glass and framing (this pushed the glass down into the wet 4200 on the inside), Inject the caulk in between the glass and outside framing and remove the tongue depressors. A week later I cleaned-up the 44200 around the inside and outside of the glass and filled in any gaps in the 4200, That was about 10myears ago and I have not had a drop of water leak in since that repair. Other places – Yes, from the windshield – No.
Trent Wood
I would treat the wood with Smith’s CPES.
I have repaired the decay from leaks many times over the years. I remove the decayed wood back to good wood. I then make replacement pieces from the same wood as was originally used and epoxy and screw them in. Then I shape and re-seal. Some have come back but most don’t. It takes time and patience. If you don’t have the time or patience then CPES the decayed area and fill with appropriate expoxy filler. But, that area will come back for attention.
Since it’s rainy season and your out in the open
Cpes, mahogany sawdust first chunky mixed in west epoxy then use finer , then finish with filler
Clean all the wet wood out. Dry it out. Treat with penetrating epoxy. Fill voids with new treated wood. Lay down a heavy bead of 4200 and embed the trim. This is so typical of these yachts. They all have this issue. PS great video.
I do not have Part B for the farthest left canister
Paul Cundiff sells them in Ky
CPES! Great stuff!
Don’t think it’s the side windows. https://youtu.be/lFhvrFRss6Y
https://www.facebook.com/groups/70684391248/permalink/10154419849141249/
Have you got water stains on any bulkheads below Cindy ? the garden hose is a good approach – thats what we resorted to as well – fixing the leaks and staying on top of them is so important – they eventually (and relatively quickly too) become points for wood rot – i’ve replaced the entire tank room bulkhead now, the complete in, out , top and bottom of the window frames of the main salon, both port and starboard, soffits of the pilot house hardtop – pilot house sills and frames, we’re down to a few little drips during a bad storm !
Looks like you might have to take the windows out and check how bad the wood is and replace as needed
check the track – often the track is screwed into the wood onto which it’s seated – water gets in there – after a while…pottiing soil
I think I’ve determined that the dividers in the windshield are the original culprit. the water drains into the side and has caused some issues in a little portion of the area above the windows I put a tarp over the windshield so I no longer have water coming from the ceiling but they still have some drips coming in from the windows so looks like it’s multiple issues at this point