Albert what level of prep do you need me to get this to for when you come here t…

Albert what level of prep do you need me to get this to for when you come here to varnish this? How much sanding do I need to do with what grit? (He says I can’t sikkens this transom) … Enlighten us all … #myarmsarereallygoingtofalloff #boatwithnoname

Albert what level of prep do you need me to get this to for when you come here to varnish this? How much sanding do I…

Posted by Cindy Chebultz on Monday, December 24, 2018

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31 replies - (see the "source" link above to see all the comments)
  1. John Verhey
    John Verhey says:

    I’m exhausted just following the effort. ????????????. You know the phrase, “continued success”. By the way you received a great Christmas present ????.

  2. Donald Swartz
    Donald Swartz says:

    Don’t have to pull all the plugs but for them to not show up, all the old finish has to be gone! Replace plugs, small plane flat. Block sand with 220 . ( hint buy a inline sander air or electric) Fill and stain your choice of hue. Then start the finish ( I like polyurethane) start with a light coat! Then build up with three more coats . Want deeper glass sand with 600 and apply more.

  3. Royce Humphreys
    Royce Humphreys says:

    Agreed on the bleaching and plugging. After your desired stain with filler application is completely dry and set, I thin the first coat st 50% varnish, no dang, 2nd cost 25% thinned and then third coat full strength. Then for coat 4, I use a red 3M sanding pad to lightly scuff the surface. Then the build costs of varnish and sand with 220 grit between each coat with smoke dry times…

  4. Jim Piersol
    Jim Piersol says:

    This color is interlux 573. It’s a filler stain and does a pretty nice job evening out the color. I sanded with 180 with an air sander then put down the stain. I removed the excess stain with burlap you can get at any gardening center. I then used interlux sealer then 10 coats of epifanes first coat thinned 20-25% then second coat thinned 10-15%, then full strength for the last 8 coats. Full disclosure this was about 20 years ago so techniques can change.

  5. John B. Nute
    John B. Nute says:

    Personally and professionally i would not use a machine for the final sand but go with a hand held sander with the grain, then wash well with thinner, until rags are clean, then apply interlux 576 mahogany cc stain using a piece of burlap, let it dry for a couple weeks, the start varnish, not poly, either epiphanes or mr preferred is awl grip varnish, for heavy builds, after4-5 coats start sanding with the grain again 220, buil coats until an absolute flat finish is aquired

  6. Thomas Dial
    Thomas Dial says:

    replace missing bungs, use varnish to hold them in, orbital sand smooth, sand with grain with a long board, no need to go more than 80-100 grit. stain, wait a few days, seal with 2 coats smith’s penetrating epoxy, varnish.

  7. Paul Cundiff
    Paul Cundiff says:

    ReplAce missing bungs
    Sand with grain 80 grit paper
    Bleach with two part bleach ( no single part
    Bleach on the market will do what you need. )
    Then sand lightly after the bleach has dried… sand off the raised grain only.
    Then stain with interlux no. 573 cc mahogany filler stain.
    Let dry overnight
    Seal with interlux interprime 4 coats all on same day. Coat 1 coat per day of flagship varnish. At 4 coats to knock down sanding with 220 or 240 grit paper . Don’t try to get flat yet.
    Then 4 more coats of flagship (all sealer and varnish coats are roll and tip. )
    Flat sand 240 then 320. Coat with captains varnish.
    Lots of details left out.. call for more detail …
    What sanppdpaper
    To use what sanding block, tack cloths, which roller to use , how large / small a spot to work. How to keep a wet edge etc.
    NEVER put an orbital on the wood. The stain does not know an orbital sanding scratch from natural wood grain! You will end up with the circular scratches showing. Look at some of your neighbors boats….. I’m sure you will find what I refer too.
    Hand sanding after orbital CAN work …. however if you miss getting your orbital scratches out they will forever haunt you. If you never put an orbital on…. you never have to worry about orbital scratches showing.
    ASK ME HOW I KNOW ABOUT THIS???

  8. Ken Locascio
    Ken Locascio says:

    Replace missing bungs with Tite—Bond glue. Chip excess bungs back to Near surface. Sand the whole surface using #80 grit sandpaper in prep of staining. 80 grit is used so that stain will absorb to the desired depth into the wood

  9. Paul Cundiff
    Paul Cundiff says:

    I stock both Sandusky and interlux. They are both good stains. Interlux you mix with 333 brushing liquid to get the consistency you desire. Sandusky is premixed. Interlux is what the factory used and Sandusky is a copy. Don’t know why but we ALWAYS grab the interlux!?!?!

  10. Richard Piatt
    Richard Piatt says:

    NEVER POLYURETHANE!!!!!!! Sanding past 150 doesn’t leave enough tooth for even filler stain. Seal with 2 coats Petit 2018 sealer then varnish. I use a combination of Epiphanes. Wood finish gloss for initial build coats since you do not need to sand between coats unless you get a bug or run. Then switch to gloss varnish sanding between coats 320. Always wash between sanding with denatured alcohol. Final coats sand 400-500 between

  11. George W. Trimpe
    George W. Trimpe says:

    Sand it with 180 .Then bleach it with Romman Cleanser before you stain.All the old timers would thin the filler stain with gasoline. That how my family and I have done it over the years

  12. Michael Schneider
    Michael Schneider says:

    Bleach, stain, sealer, 12 coats of varnish. 10 build up applications, then then 320 grit before the second to last to final coat. My transom was West System’ed together between planks and to a sheet of marine grade plywood. Cold Molded, varnished transom. Templated and installed as one piece.

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